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Throwback on Innsbruck’s Climbing World Championships

The IFSC Climbing World Championships that took place in Innsbruck in Austria ended a few days ago.

If you missed the latest news and results, here’s a little update about what happened the past week! So many people gathered to assist to this crazy event and to live this insane atmosphere! 

 

CONGRATS AUSTRIA !

The two Austrian leaders Jessica Pilz & Jakob Schubert secured the gold title !

Photo made by Jon Glassberg / louderthan11

For the second time, the 22 years old Austrian girl wins gold. She won by a margin of 11 seconds over the Slovenian Janja Garnbret! What an awesome performance!

“I literally can’t describe it” she says. “While I was coming down, I was extremely happy and couldn’t believe it. Normally I am a slower climber than Janja, but the fact that it worked out like that now – unbelievable! I still don’t even realize what happened.”

And the day after… What another performance for Austria ! After winning in Paris in 2012, Jakob Schubert claimed his second world championship in a thrilling final with Adam Ondra! If you missed this moment, check it out here!

Recap on the top 6 men and women competed in speed, bouldering and lead : it was a long round right at the end of a long competition! Some climbers looked tired and their skin was pretty much destroyed.
The Combined podium was:
1- Janja Garnbret | Jakob Schubert
2- Sol Sa | Adam Ondra
3- Jessica Pilz | Jan Hojer

Lead finalists : Jakob Schubert, Adam Ondra and Jan Hojer

 

 

WHO WAS THE FASTEST ?

The Iranian Reza Alipourshenazandifar takes the men’s title

32 athletes went head-to-head in the Speed Climbing event on Thursday to climb the 15-metre Speed wall. Congrats Poland this time, who sent three athletes to the medal races !

For the men race, the Iranian Reza Alipour won gold with the record of 5.808 seconds, followed by the French Bassa Mawem and the Russian Stanislav Kokorin.

7,56 seconds : that’s the time it took to Aleksandra Kalucka to reach the top of the 15-metre Speed wall and become the world’s fastest woman climber. Anna Brozek arrived second, and the Russian Mariia Krasavina won the bronze medal!

 

PARACLIMBING

Five new Women and seven new Men were crowned at IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships Inssbruck 2018! Paraclimbing athletes from France, Great Britain and Japan won 9 out of 12 categories! Italy, Iran and the United States also won gold medals.

Paraclimbing AL2 Men Leg Amputee 2018 IFSC World Championship Innsbruck

Did you know ? Paraclimbing is broken up into various categories based on the specific characteristics of each athlete. Categories vary from visual impairment to arm and leg amputation.

The French athletes Lucie Jarrige and Thierry Delarue ultimately ended up on top for the Women’s and Men’s AL-2 (leg amputee) category. The U.S. athlete Emily Stephenson finished third for Women’s AL-2.

The French Solenne Piret won gold for the women’s AU-2 (forearm amputee) while the British Matthew Phillips took the crown for the men. In the Men’s B1 (visual impairment) category, the Japanese Kiochiro Kobayashi took first place while there were no women B1 competitors.

Congratulations to all the athletes who competed in the World Championships this year in Innsbruck!

50 000 CLIMBING HOLDS !

Kletterzentrum Innsbruck is one of the World’s largest climbing facilities. Over 6000 m2 of climbing surface accommodate all three disciplines of climbing (Lead, Boulder, Speed). It has been built and financed by the city of Innsbruck, the land of Tyrol and the Austrian government. 50 000 climbing holds are available!!! From climbing routes between 3a and 9a, you have plenty of options to exercise! 😉

 

SEAN MC COLL’S FIGHT FOR ATHLETES’ RIGHTS

In the Lead qualifications here at the 2018 World Championships, Sean Mc Coll climbed one route almost to the top and upon review was scored much lower on the route because of “touching” a sponsorship logo on the wall.

He explained on his Instagram : “The issue at hand is that we were not judged the same as all the other athletes. In my example here, CZE athlete Adam Ondra touched the signage in the EXACT same manner (debatable as always) and was not given the same treatment, process, or score as myself or Romain.”

Check out the videos here!

Stay tuned !!

Psicobloc Master Series 2017 in Utah
Events

Refreshing: Psicobloc Masters Series 2018 🌊

This summer, don’t miss out the annual Psicobloc Masters Series meeting sponsored by The North Face. The competition will take place on August 4th at Utah Olympic park in Park city. If you have the chance to leave nearby go to have a look to book a ticket!

Psicobloc Masters website enhance the beauty of this sport composed of pure sensations, freedom and technicity:

“Push the envelope of technical climbing and experience the special challenge afforded by Psicobloc.”

Did you know ?

Deep-water Solo started in the late 1970’s

When free-solo started becoming famous in California. There isn’t a clear beginning or founder of Psicobloc but we heard several time the story of Miquel Riera who was frustrated with the aid climbing routes around his local area, so he went to Porto Pi, in Palma with his friends Jaume Payeras, Eduardo Moreno and Pau Bover to find routes that they could free climb. This became Majorca’s first bouldering venue. Then, they slowly progressed to the short sea cliffs near there, and then you guessed what happened: a new risky and exciting discipline was born.

The real meaning of “Psicobloc” is… 

From the Spanish, this discipline has been named “Psicobloc”, which, when translated literally into English, means “Psycho Bouldering”.